A new shop offers a unique concept in sourcing specialist wines, spirits, oils and vinegars. Sandra Carter went to Chalfont St Giles for a taster.

YOU could call it the trendsetter for a new generation of off-licences. You could call it an amalgam of the heady allure of a French vineyard shop with the tempting array of a delicatessen.

Vom Fass is certainly different. And the new shop which opened on Chalfont St Giles High Street last month has been drawing in curious passers-by who tend to leave with a smile on their faces.

No wonder, for many of the most tempting of life's little pleasures are found here: oils and vinegars, wines, spirits and liqueurs.

You can get these in your nearest supermarket, I hear you say. Ah, but what a different shopping experience. All these lovely liquids are stored in old-fashioned wooden casks, pretty pottery crocks or huge glass jars, and drawn off fresh as you want them, into your choice of container.

This also means you can taste before you buy, and take home as much or as little as you need. (In fact, inside the casks and crocks are standard packaging developed by Vom Fass with the speciality producers.) It's all the idea of Richard Mosconi, who is a true European: Spanish mother, Italian father, brought up in France. And the name he chose for his retail concept is German: Vom Fass, from the cask'.

His first shop opened in Notting Hill in 2000, the next within Selfridges, and the third within Harrods, with further outlets in Bath and other cities. The pretty village of Chalfont St Giles gets the preferential treatment because Richard has set up his headquarters above the shop here.

"The idea is that gourmets and epicures can look, taste and enjoy these specialities," he explains.

"Our aim is to work closely with producers around the world who grow and produce their goods in a way that is still original and natural, in close communication with nature."

And amazing some of their products are. There are dozens of oils, with olive oils from different regions alongside walnut, hazelnut, flax, thistle, poppy, sesame, grapeseed and other oils. Some are mixed with herbs and spices. Robert's own recipe is a light Cretan olive oil with lemon, basil and rosemary, which produces layers of flavours to give any salad a lift.

Then there are the balsamic and wine vinegars, again a rich selection, from Balsam di Cassis to sherry vinegar Reserva.

Robert gets me to taste a hazelnut oil, then pours another teaspoonful and adds two drops of raspberry balsamic vinegar. It's gorgeous, smooth and nutty followed by a sharp tang of acid.

He comes from a family of Parisian restaurateurs and is soon sharing tips: "Just brush some scallops with hazelnut oil, sear them, then reduce the juice with raspberry balsamic and a little butter, top it all with almonds and you'll find it's delicious."

He has chosen a range of house wines from small producers. Just like in France, you can turn up with your own bottle to decant your choice they run from £5.50 to £8.50 a litre.

Or choose one of the Vom Fass bottles, which are simply delightful, from pretty heartshaped bottles for a special gift, sexy Adam and Eve bottles, elegant shapes with a choice of coloured stoppers, or stackable tiers of bottles in which you could start a collection of your personal choice of brandies or vinegars or whatever.

The spirits, including single malts and unusual cognacs, are chosen from a pyramid of small wooden casks, while tempting liqueurs are in giant glass jars.

So what's currently wowing the villagers? Orgasm on the palate. That's the description chef Ainsley Harriot (a fan of the Notting Hill store) gave to the strawberry, lime and vodka cocktail. It's certainly is gorgeous.