As Thai cuisine grows ever more popular, Sandra Carter visits Thai Rack.

SO many chefs who become rising stars in the capital end up yearning for their own little place in rural Bucks.

The latest to follow their dream of independence and the good life are Andrew and Suki Taylor.

Suki came to England from Thailand when she was 20. She'd learnt Thai cooking the best way from her mother and grandmother but in London she went through chef training, became head chef, and soon headed up all the Thai and oriental restaurants run by Whitbread.

Then she became a consultant for people wanting to set up Thai restaurants, at a time when the cuisine of the Land of Smiles has never been more popular.

It was at a Thai restaurant in London that she met her husband Andrew, then bar manager. He went on to organise upmarket catering events such as the Queen Mother's 100th birthday banquet and the Golden Jubilee banquet at London's Guildhall.

So they brought lots of experience and high standards when they took over Thai Rack in Gerrards Cross six months ago. Rack' in Thai means love, by the way.

Andrew says: "Our food is entirely authentic as everyone except for me is Thai. We have a super head chef. And because everything is freshly cooked to order, we can adjust the dishes according to how people would like them. They can have a totally Thai experience, or we can make it more accessible for those new to Thai cuisine."

The restaurant in Oak End Way looks quite small from the outside, but it extends far back and is full of oriental styling which adds to the sense of travelling to exotic places for an evening. And the service when we visited last week was just like the best of Thai: smiley, efficient, friendly.

For those who have spent holidays in Thailand and indeed for the surprising number of clients who tell Andrew they worked there for many years all the famous dishes are on the menu: those hot and spicy soups, interesting salads, gorgeous noodle dishes, green and red curries, and lots more. Lemongrass, galangal and coconut milk find their traditional place among the dishes, and seafood is a speciality. Vegetarians find lots of imaginative choices. Main dishes range from £6.50 for chicken dishes to £7.50 for duck breast slices in exotic sweet and sour tamarind sauce.

Suki's Specials include Phuket fish (£12.50) and her favourite, steamed sea bass.

If choosing from a long menu leaves you fazed, try one of the three set meals. The Kaan Toak menu (£19.95) gives a beautifully presented array of starter treats including chicken satay with peanut sauce, spring roll, spicy fishcake and crispy vermicelli. Follow that with Thai green curry with chicken, stirfried pork, and rice noodles with prawns, beansprouts and jasmine rice. Then choose from the dessert menu.

Or choose the more exotic King's Feast (£12.95) which includes deepfried tiger prawns, crispy salmon fillet and duck among a spread of dishes.

For a quick taster, try the lunchtime £4.95 meal on a plate. A delivery service is being set up soon within three miles of Gerrards Cross.

Thai Rack serves gorgeous food in pleasant surroundings with friendly service. I'm glad the Taylors and their little daughter Abigail decided to move west.