Our review of the new Piccolino restaurant in Marlow

After being whisked around the newly made-over interior of 92-94 High Street, now the 19th Piccolino restaurant in the UK, and nodding our approval at a gorgeously decked-out heated terrace packed with wide-eyed customers – one was “amazed” at the 200-person turnout, another “really excited” to try out the extensive menu – we squeezed through said bystanders to our seats and put in our orders.

We kicked things off with a Bruschetta Classica starter (£9.50) – sourdough loaded with herby, generously salted tomatoes and garlic - which was as good as they come with a great crunch-to-flavour ratio.

Then we moved on to the Arancini entrée (£9.75), elegantly arranged in a chilli tomato sauce with smatterings of parmesan which had a similarly crispy casing, giving way to a suitably gooey mozzarella and rice filling.

In a little dinner theatre, my main dish – the Orata Al Forno (£33.50), whole sea bream roasted with lemon and rosemary and served with roasted potatoes and salsa verde, was expertly filleted on a fold-up table that materialised seemingly from nowhere in the aisle, dodging elbows and rogue appetiser trays.

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While not overly flavourful itself, the fish was well-paired with the tangy homemade salsa and, substantiated by our reliable side orders of truffle and pecorino fries and seasonal greens, made for a reasonably hearty and moreish centrepiece. 

We also ordered the Taglioni Al Tartufo (£18.50), fresh pasta in a truffle and parmesan sauce with a black truffle garnish – a sophisticated, if light, main that was delicate and refined in flavour and would be perfectly paired with a side of bread to mop up the lingering sauce.

Dessert was an undeniable highlight of the meal – we kept it Italian with a slice of Tiramisu (£9.25) and Tortino Al Cioccolato (£9.25), a chocolate fondant dome with vanilla ice cream on the side.

The Tiramisu was generously portioned, rich and finely balanced in flavour between cakey sweetness, creaminess and full-bodied espresso. The fondant was similarly indulgent, warm, heavy and sweet with a scattering of biscuit and cool ice cream to balance out its richness.

Our meal – punctuated by bustling staff and more than a hundred customers wandering up and down the aisles sipping champagne and sampling finger food – ended with a hot chocolate (£4.25) and peppermint tea (£3.75), which we sipped as we watched the crowds slowly begin to dissipate.

As non-alcoholic digestifs go, it was a lovely way to bow out an evening of extravagant dining in the beautifully sophisticated redesigned surroundings.

We would recommend visiting on a slightly quieter night, but Piccolino Marlow – with its exclusive feel and revamped look – is undeniably a good fit for the town and is sure to become a hotspot for those willing to pay a little extra – though not too much – to celebrate a special occasion.