Lockdown may feel like a million years ago but the novelty of being able to go out for lunch and a potter around town has not worn off on me. And judging by the lively atmosphere in Marlow, it seems I am not alone.

When I was invited to visit The Oarsman on Spittal Street last month, the pub and town were buzzing despite the wet and windy weather. After the challenges of the last few years and with the ever-present cost of living crisis, it was heartening to see the town busy and people continuing to enjoy themselves.

The charismatic pub and restaurant, which has just celebrated its one-year anniversary, sits at the top of the Marlow Road roundabout and is the brainchild of owners Nigel Sutcliffe and James Mclean who between them, have impressive careers in the hospitality industry. Nigel has worked with the celebrated chef Heston Blumenthal while James has held positions in some of the most coveted kitchens in the country.

It is clear with this calibre of ownership The Oarsman is no ordinary gastropub. I knew I was in for a treat when I took a look at the menu which according to their website changes daily, keeping diners on their toes. The Oarsman takes its drinks as serious as its food. Rather than a wine list, this pub’s offering comes in a leather-bound booklet and has more than 300 options to choose from. I was sorry to be driving.

To start, I had the onion tart with marmite emulsion and at the risk of sounding over the top, it was divine. Freshly baked pastry encasing flavoursome but not overpowering filling. My dining partner went for the Moules mariniere, describing it as ‘the perfect amount’ to kick things off before their main entrecôte - cooked medium rare - arriving with spice carrot puree, roast potatoes, and a show-stopping Yorkshire pudding. I went for the potato rosti and was in carbohydrate heaven. The kimchi and pickles added acidity, accompanying the crunch of the potato with satirisation. We shared a portion of the cauliflower cheese which I am still dreaming about now.

We were both full of great food but couldn’t resist a pudding. I chose the dark chocolate mousse praline which came with a delectable butterscotch sauce. While dining partner went for the lemon posset plum jam, a lighter but no less enjoyable treat.

The service was very good - the servers were attentive and informative without being intrusive.

We ended the afternoon with a wander around Marlow, the perfect way to walk off a wonderful lunch.