Have you ever stayed in a hotel and thought: I could do better than this?
Bassam Shlewet often did when travelling as Chairman of TTT Moneycorp Group over three decades. When the business was sold in 2011/12, he decided to leave the corporate life and invest in hospitality.
He wanted to create a luxurious yet discreet boutique hotel, with excellent food and drink, understated-chic bedrooms, natural and eco-friendly materials.
Bassam took on the less-than-lovely Red Lyon just off the Marlow by-pass on the road to Hurley and spent two years, and a substantial investment, creating the Hurley House Hotel. It has 10 bedrooms, an elegant restaurant, cosy bar and delightful terraces.
Bassam’s ideas of a dream boutique hotel were obviously shared by others, as three years on, Hurley House has won a string of awards. These include Best Small Luxury Gastronomic Boutique Hotel Worldwide 2019, Condé Nast Johansens Best Small and Exclusive Property in the UK and Ireland 2019, and Good Food Award for Gastro Pubs 2020.
The food? Fit to pamper any traveller far from home, as well as locals looking for a special dinner or a cosy bar meal. Most nights there is live background music, but we called last Wednesday for one of its regular Movie Nights when diners can stay on for a film in the attractive Garden Pavilion. We joined about 40 people relaxing on comfy loungers to watch the film Judy: so different from a cinema experience with free popcorn on tap and waiters to bring drinks.
We had enjoyed a superb meal. Fans of authentic Japanese cuisine have an unusually wide choice here and there’s a Josper grill for steaks, but we chose from the general menu in the laid-back elegance of the dining room.
Prawn cocktail - I wondered what the chef would do with this tired perennial. In came something special: half a dozen juicy king prawns on lettuce hearts with a piquant sauce, a scatter of caviar and - surprise - a warm lobster and mango cigar (filo packed with tastiness). My friend chose a dish I wouldn’t have considered, heritage beetroot with feta, and declared it a treat with fresh, clean flavours enlivened with a tart orange and hazelnut dressing.
Her main of pan-roasted duck and mine of slow-cooked belly of pork with pork fillet were both generous portions of perfectly cooked meat, nicely elevated with caramelised turnip purée (hers) and roasted apple with celeriac purée (mine). Fondant potato was just right too - they get the details spot on here. For dessert, The Hurley House Gooseberry with white chocolate mousse and coconut sorbet was truly stunning. The mousse was topped with poached gooseberries with a layer of purée hidden within, and beside it was a clear dome of sugar looking like a spaceman’s helmet. Shatter it with a spoon to reveal the richest sorbet with generous coconut flakes. A lovely surprise, and delicious.
Although a meal of this quality with excellent service is never going to be a cheap night out, we considered it very good value. Returning to the car through the terrace garden, its trees sparkling with thousands of tiny lights, we agreed this had been a memorable treat. hurleyhouse.co.uk
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