Ruth Brindle enjoyed a memorable weekend in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt areas of the island topped off with an open-air concert by a classical star.
As we drive into the mountains of the Sierra de Tramantuna in northern Majorca feasting on the spectacular landscapes and sea vistas as our vehicle navigates some very scary bends, it becomes clear that we are on our way to a very special place.
The family-owned Barceló Formentor hotel has been the favourite of the rich and famous such as Winston Churchill, Audrey Hepburn, Agatha Christie and the Spanish royal family since it was built in the 1920s. And as you enter the understated luxury of the foyer to be met with a cooling cocktail by one of the attentive staff members you can see why.
The fact that there’s a Grace Kelly suite here, well, that speaks for itself.
We are here to enjoy one of the hotel’s Sunset Classics concerts featuring renowned baritone Thomas Hampson. The concerts have also attracted such classical stars as Kiri Te Kanawa and Lang Lang. And the setting could not be more beautiful.
Ever since I first saw photos of the hotel, nestling in the cliffs above a pristine UNESCO Heritage Site bay, I’d wanted to stay here. It is the only hotel on the peninsular and my room has a view of the sea over the lush gardens and there is nothing to spoil the peace and quiet.
But one of the undoubted highlights of staying here is the superb offering of restaurants and places to eat – seven in all, even a piano bar. You can enjoy the very best of Spanish and European cuisine whether it’s for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
After a leisurely lunch at Las Palmeres restaurant, Iberian ham carved at the table followed by melt in the mouth fish, it was time to enjoy the facilities, and the swimming pool was very inviting. No need to fight for a lounger and an attendant brings towels. I felt really pampered.
But if you can bear to leave the lounger, make time to wander through the gardens with lush foliage and bright blooms to delight the senses. The hotel is set in 3,000 acres of grounds.
Dinner at the hotel’s signature restaurant El Pi rounded off a delightful and relaxing first day. Fantastic.
The next morning it was hard to choose a favourite from the extensive buffet with everything you could possibly want and more, then it was down to the beach, just a couple of minutes’ easy walk away. It was once private, but even though it is enjoyed by the public too now, it is not crowded and is a great place to relax or enjoy water sports if you feel active.
If you really must take exercise you can walk or run along the hillside paths, rent a bike (or even Harley Davidson motorbike) or play tennis. Guests can also book up to go sailing, canoeing, kayaking, parasailing or hire a catamaran for sunset trips at an additional cost. Golf enthusiasts are within easy reach of two of the island’s best golf courses of Alcanada and Pollença.
But don’t miss the chance to enjoy a professional and very effective massage in a cabana right by the sands to ease away any remaining work tension. Fabulous. Then enjoy lunch in the sunshine at another one of the hotel’s eateries right by the beach – the Platja Mar. Once again, it’s hard not to choose a fish dish from the Mediterranian inspired menu.
In the afternoon we enjoyed a very informative Master Class with Felipe Aguirre who was to conduct the orchestra for the open-air concert that night. He gave a fascinating insight into the music that had been chosen - from Mozart to Cole Porter.
But nothing can really prepare you for the sheer glamour and magic of the evening itself. As night fell, the beautifully dressed guests gathered to sip champagne under the twinkling lights on the fragrance-filled hotel patio. Then it was down the stairs to the fabulous setting surrounded by trees to watch the concert that was truly magnificent – Thomas Hampson living up to his top international status, but also charming us all with his wit and warmth.
As the night air got a little chillier – the ladies were given shawls to keep warm, before the whole throng gathered for a magnificent gala dinner with Thomas Hampson on the top table.
The set menu included Norwegian lobster cannelloni in a creamy sauce with Sóller shrimps and caviar, wild sea bass served with creamy pumpkin puree and autumnal vegetables, drizzled with Mallorcan olive oil, tenderloin angus steak, chestnut polenta and crispy mushrooms served with a cranberry and red wine jus and finished with Granada pear and chocolate crumble with gianduja and white truffle sauce, all washed down with liberal amounts of wine and champagne.
An unforgettable experience in a location that has truly earned the description of special on an island that offers such a varied experience for discerning visitors.
It’s a place I’ll return to again soon I’m sure.
Facts and rates
Rates at Barceló Formentor over the concert period are from £383 per room for a two-night stay.
Formentor Sunset Classics: From £235 for the concert and gala dinner,
The 2016 programme starts on July 16 with pianist Juan Pérez Floristán
July 30 - Quiroga Quartet September
1 - violinist Hilary Hahn October
7 - soprano Ainhoa Arteta
Monarch, the scheduled leisure airline, operates year round flights to Majorca from Birmingham, London Gatwick, London Luton, Leeds Bradford and Manchester airports with fares, including taxes, starting from £39 one way (£70 return). For further information or to book Monarch flights, Monarch Holidays or Monarch Hotels.
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